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   Places to see

 

If you have ever wanted to shrink into your sandcastle at the beach (or longed for life in a fortified Omani village) pop-into the mud-brick ruins of Al-Sulaif (east of the Nizwa roundabout; admission free; dawn till dusk). The citadel's watchtower is clearly visible guarding the eastern-passage into the oasis. Warning: your kids will have died and gone to hide-n-seek heaven.

The largest desert in the world, the Rub al-Khali, or Empty Quarter, is just around the corner from Ibri. Following the signs for Ramlat Khalia at the main roundabout, go right at the first radio-tower turret, drive an hour through the PDO oilfields and you'll soon come to the edge of the world. The sensation of being at sea on the sand dunes, the proximity of the stars and the solitude are overpowering. Camping recommended for the adventurous, bring full gear.

With jaunty towers, proud parapets and commanding views of the surrounding area, 400 year-old Ibri Fort (north of the souk roundabout; admission free; 8:30am-2:30pm Sat-Thu) is worth a visit. The stronghold’s claim to fame is the austere mosque inside can accommodate up to 1,000 prostrating worshipers at any given time. When we were there, it was as empty as the Rub al-Khali.

Even though Mokneyat doesn’t mean ‘Garden of Eden’ in Arabic – it should. A stroll under the umbrella of a 1,001 desert palms, where the wild mangos and banana trees grow is an evocative and romantic experience. When the green valley contrasts with the surrounding black crags and the towering sand-turrets of a 16th century castle, ancient Arabia seems to unfolds as it has for millennia. Go north from the Nizwa roundabout 46 kilometers, right at the first Shell Station after Al-Dariz.

Some of the hillside watchtowers at the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Bat (14km north of the Nizwa roundabout, right at Al-Dariz, left at the Wadi Al-Ain sign; admission free; dawn till dusk) are not towers at all – they’re actually honeycombed tombs more than 4,000 years old. Constructed by the Umm An-Nar culture during pre-Islamic times the necropolis towers were symbols of wealth made from the lucrative copper trade. The Kasr Al-Sleme (castle of peace), palm-gardens and nearby tomb 401 are all worth visiting. Topographical maps of the area (with suggested walks through the necropolis and surroundings ruins) are available in an info-box at the fenced-in Kar Al-Rojoom site (also worth a look) across from the electrical-transformers.

Only in Wadi Dhum will you find such aquatic delights. Pack a picnic and your bathing suit (modest swimwear recommended). From Bat, counter-intuitively follow the signs for Wadi Hajar (signs for Wadi Dhum don’t appear until you’re actually there). Once you are, whistle your way up to one of the only year-round swimming holes in Oman.

 
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